Laumersheimer Kapellenberg

When you see one of the Knipser brothers behind a table at a tasting, good-naturedly chatting with his customers while stoically pouring glasses for the thickening throng, there is nothing to suggest he might be anything more than another ruddy-cheeked wine grower from the Pfalz. And yet, the Knipser estate is arguably germany's most accomplished winery, in that they overachieve so consistently in every category and style - white and red, heavy and light, sweet and dry.

This one is light and dry, and, surprise surprise, perfectly made: Wonderful fresh acidity, clean, fragrant, slightly exotic Riesling fruit (think grapefruit and passion fruit), lean structure, light on the alcohol. Not deeply mineral or complex, but so flawlessly made it's a joy to drink.

This Knipser demonstrates nicely how a nice, juicy Riesling can taste when it trades some freshness for a little saturation. Mineral, peaches, lemon and herbs with a little acid and signs of age - a juicy, full bodied peach melting on your tongue with a little creamy mineral. Different in character from the Riesling I usually have and hence very welcome, especially as you feel this wine has substance without being oaked to death.