Cono Sur, Gewürztraminer 2008

After all this recent writing about German wine guides, we go back to the infamous category of (British) supermarket wine - only to get seriously confused. Really, this wine is probably the most confusing tasting experience in a long while.

Gewürztraminer is a grape that I mostly know in a French context (Alsace), also from Germany and perhaps Italy. So I was quite pleased to see a reasonably priced Traminer at Sainsburys yesterday - and it is from Cono Sur, a winery that has been quite pleasant in a supermarket context.

At first, the flavour was not great. A little apple acid with tropic fruit and lychee. In the mouth a strong dry acid kick, fresh and clean, but with noticeable alcohol and some edge. Over time, the wine developed a lot, showing, at various times: floral notes, bitter elderflower, ether, boiled sweet, orange peel, orange-vomit (not unpleasant (!)) marzipan - and a certain mix of richness, acid and freshness that reminded us of a dry Riesling that had seen a few years. Still, quite fat with a little too much alcohol.

Half a day later, the wine seemed more consistent and less fat. I do like it, but it is a little too fat for me and somewhat confusing. Again, I do like it, but I am not sure if I would ever drink it again - despite getting some nice marzipan finish now. It is just that for every category this wine could fall into I can think of a wine that does it better than the Cono Sur. Having said that, the price is good and the wine definitely interesting.