dry

These wines are dry, or 'trocken' in German terminology, - either according to our palate or the classification of the winery.

Van Volxem, Saar Riesling, 2005

So far wines from the Van Volxem winery have not let us down, so when I came across a bottle of the 2005 Riesling from the Saar river at my favourite Battersea wine merchant last year (the notes are from September) I had to take it home with me.

A wine of shiny golden colour and a nice nose of mineral, smoothed over with caramel-plum and herbs, with the addition of a little petrol. In the mouth, a rich, almost saturated experience, a Riesling with some complexity and also well rounded.

torsten Thursday, 28/05/2009

Ökonomierat Rebholz, Weißburgunder Spätlese trocken "Im Sonnenschein", Großes Gewächs, 2002

Very dark straw colour, a tinge of gold

Smells of peaches and pineapples pickled in petroleum (there's German white wine for you...), marzipan, dried herbs, and smoke. Reminded me somewhat of the more powerful Grüne Veltliners.

Great density and an oily, liqueurish mouth-feel, some maturity (camomile tea, bread), but most of all great smoky minerality. The finish of dried peaches, smoke and salted almonds is long and intense.

Saladini Pilastri, Rosso Piceno 2007 (Organic)

Cherry red, with a purple edge

Smells vaguely of sour cherries and green wood, a little unpleasant funky, sweaty component as well.

Cherries again in the mouth, plums maybe, some sweetness, but also bitterness and a rough edge of tannin. Somehow, the fruit doesn't quite come through.

This has been one of our pasta wines for a few years, and it has done okay, but it doesn't deserve unwavering loyalty: Hard to believe there are no fresher, more focused Italian reds for under 5 €.

Weingut Seehof, Grüner Silvaner trocken, Edition Pinard de Picard, 2007

A good food companion, this wine combines flinty mineral and green apple with a little hay, spice and nut. A nice dosage of acidity adds to the freshness but also introduces some bitter notes to this otherwise nicely balanced wine. Very pleasant with food (asparagus and fish in our case).

Reinhold & Cornelia Schneider, Spätburgunder trocken "R", 2001

Surprisingly dark colour for a Pinot. Smells very ripe, black cherries, some marzipan and some smoked bacon. In the mouth well integrated, but still a tad too dominant oak, very dense and powerful, nutty, no signs of age.

Undeniably classy and powerful, this Pinot ranges between the "german" (oak, warmly nutty) and the "french" (tight acidity and tannin, cherries) style. Impressive and very yummy wine from Baden's Kaiserstuhl, but I would have liked it with a bit less oak.

Andreas Laible, Riesling Spätlese trocken "An der Kapelle" 2007

Tastes deeply, most interestingly of fleshy peach, tart , very cool somehow, herbal, but also of spicy vegetables (artichokes?). Very promising.

Very dry in the mouth, noble Riesling fruit with perfect acidity and great mineral after-taste, but this wine's signature is the 'cool' feeling on the palate, Gletschereis-Bonbons, you know them, and an almost sharp herbal intensity. It's like a herbal tincture on overheated skin.

Julian Wednesday, 08/04/2009

Bodegas Mauro, Mauro, 2004

Incredibly intense dark red colour, almost bordering on black. A nose full of fruit that, after a little time with our friend the decanter, opened up to combine redcurrant, cherry, plum, woodland herbs, leather, manure (just a hint) and oak - the latter is already very pleasantly integrated.

In the mouth it is intense yet smooth, a little spicy oak, mellow fruit, grainy tannins (quite enjoyable) - it is strong but you don't notice (in the sense of taste) the alcohol at all.

It felt as if this wine would gain from a few more years in the bottle, but it is already quite a presence!