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Submitted by Apicius Sunday, 22/11/2015

Living only 15 minutes away from the Ahr valley, this is the wine that I literally grew up with.

Within this small region, the Heimersheimer Berg is a somewhat special terroir. It is situated in the eastern part of the region, not far away from the estuary of the Ahr into the Rhine. The soil of the Ahr is of vulcanic origin, with slate and grauwacke on the hillsides, but sand, loess and loam in the shallow terroirs near the small river. The Heimersheimer Berg, although a hillside terroir, is being described as dominated by loess and loam, and this makes a considerable difference to the more mineral terroirs that the Ahr is well-known for.

As far as I know, the whole terroir is owned by only one winemaker - Jakob Sebastian from Rech, now owned by Christoph Sebastian - and so all of its wines carry the style and approach of this particular vitner.

From my experience over a few decades, this winemaker always seems to focus on incorporating as much tannins as possible into the wines. When young, Jakob Sebastian red wines all make a fairly herb impression, but they loose that over a few years. While most Ahr wines are supposed to be drunken when young, it is a good idea to store Jakob Sebastin wines for a few years.

The Heppinger Berg Pinot Noir which I had this evening is 6 years old now, and it seems to be at its best now. As most of the Ahr red wines, it is a light one. The Ahr valley is one of Europe's most northerly red wine regions, so don't compare its wines with French Pinots. But I think their lightness can disclose aspects of the Pinot Noir grape that many of the stronger French and other relatives may miss.

I find the Heimersheimer Berg hard to come by. It is a strange crossbreed between an ambiguous Pinot Noir that focusses on complex aromas, and a pleasant, easy-drinking wine. It is quite fruity with a decent pinch of acidity. The bouquet is rather discreet, but I get cherry and mayby some dark fruits on the palate. I would rather not give a food recommendation as this wine stands for itself. Its aromas, its balance between lightness and "serious" approach makes it interesting enough to grant it the central role of a tasting experience. It is an elegant wine, just a little bit more refined than what you would expect from an everyday's food partner.

While I can identify the Heimersheimer Berg as an Ahr wine I'd say it is not a typical one. Today, the Ahr valley is dominated by two winegrower's cooperatives, and three or four ambitious vitners who are out for Parker points. Beyond that, there are some less known vitners who simply provide good value for the money, and still follow their own way. The Heimersheimer Berg is a good example for such an approach.

You may find the Heimersheimer Berg also being referred to as Heppinger Berg. The German wine rules are quite strict, and a few years ago, under miraculous circumstances, the former Heppinger Berg was renamed Heimerheimer Berg (both are neighboring villages). Jakob Sebastian missed the objection deadline, and they had to cope with the fact that their main product was re-branded against their will.

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