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Submitted by David Strange Wednesday, 04/08/2010

If you really want to get the serious Chenin Blanc action you really need to try some Savennieres; it is the Platonic ideal of the grape. Much weirder and much more intense than most Vouvrays, they have the lowest permitted maximum yields of any French wine region which normally results in them being super-concentrated. They age forever, I've had 30 year old bottles which were still in good shape, but I prefer them quite young when they have the suggestion of recognisable fruit to them. Because the appellation is so poorly known internationally and the wines are often seen as curiosities the prices are embarrassingly affordable. The last one I had was a 2005, a great bottle of wine for not much cash.

One thing you can say about Savennieres is that they are not short on character. That character may not always be immediately attractive, but once you've drank a few you'll find yourself hooked.

Cheers,
David

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