I'm always honoured when people who have stumbled onto this blog contact us for expertise on German wine, even while I find myself guiltily hoping that we are not the only source that they rely on, given the patchiness and dabbling character of this our whole undertaking. But here is a piece of advice that I guarantee you will not regret following: When looking for mature-ish Mosel Riesling in great drinking condition, look no further than the 2002 vintage, underrated in many quarters, but in my humble experience as safe a bet for lively, nuanced wines as you are going to find.
Martin Müllen's 2002 Kabinett from the aptly named Paradies ("paradise") vineyard is a case in point. Over and beyond being a minor classic of the neo-traditional style of Mosel winemaking (whatever the hell that is supposed to be), it also has a long and distinguished history in this Wine Rambler's cellar, being one of the very first wines ordered directly from the producer. And I'm happy to report it has never before tasted this good:
Lemon, pineapple, cold peppermint tea in the nose. If you know a little about the region, it will make sense to tell you that this is more a Ruwer than a middle Mosel style, otherwise, just accept that it is insanely refreshing. On the palate, slightly mellow, but still crystal clear Riesling fruit, lemon and fresh herbs dominating, the sweetness now receding and buffered by the still gripping acidity and the smooth minerality.
This is a wine that is not only able to age fantastically, it is really only now coming into its own. For a laughable price, sensationally enjoyable drinking.