Martin Müllen, Kröver Paradies, Riesling Kabinett, 2002

Martin Müllen, Kröver Paradies, Riesling Kabinett, 2002

I'm always honoured when people who have stumbled onto this blog contact us for expertise on German wine, even while I find myself guiltily hoping that we are not the only source that they rely on, given the patchiness and dabbling character of this our whole undertaking. But here is a piece of advice that I guarantee you will not regret following: When looking for mature-ish Mosel Riesling in great drinking condition, look no further than the 2002 vintage, underrated in many quarters, but in my humble experience as safe a bet for lively, nuanced wines as you are going to find.

Martin Müllen's 2002 Kabinett from the aptly named Paradies ("paradise") vineyard is a case in point. Over and beyond being a minor classic of the neo-traditional style of Mosel winemaking (whatever the hell that is supposed to be), it also has a long and distinguished history in this Wine Rambler's cellar, being one of the very first wines ordered directly from the producer. And I'm happy to report it has never before tasted this good:

Lemon, pineapple, cold peppermint tea in the nose. If you know a little about the region, it will make sense to tell you that this is more a Ruwer than a middle Mosel style, otherwise, just accept that it is insanely refreshing. On the palate, slightly mellow, but still crystal clear Riesling fruit, lemon and fresh herbs dominating, the sweetness now receding and buffered by the still gripping acidity and the smooth minerality.

This is a wine that is not only able to age fantastically, it is really only now coming into its own. For a laughable price, sensationally enjoyable drinking.


Submitted by torsten Tuesday, 26/07/2011

The price is very good indeed - Müllens just have a reasonable pricing policy overall, and the other aged wines I have tried were all very good and definitely worth the money. Maybe I need to put in another order...

Submitted by Kimberly Tuesday, 26/07/2011

In reply to by torsten

Müllen is one of the best kept secrets .... love it! hmmmm, now I am going to have to put in another order, before it is gone! ;)

Submitted by Julian Wednesday, 27/07/2011

In reply to by Kimberly

Absolutely right, Kimberly, so maybe I should have kept it quiet. The truly great thing about Müllen is his back catalogue of aged, but still available Rieslings. A treasure trove.

Submitted by Kimberly Wednesday, 27/07/2011

In reply to by Julian

If this was Facebook, I would have had to press the "I like" button.

Submitted by Julian Wednesday, 27/07/2011

In reply to by Kimberly

Very nice of you to say that. And, by the way, you can. We have the facebook-link up on our homepage.