Philipp Kuhn, Riesling Tradition, 2008
If you have ever come across the German village of Laumersheim, chances are it was because of a wine. Laumersheim is home to the Kinpser winery, a family owned estate that makes some of the best red wines you can get in Germany (and marvellous white wines too). And it is home to the Kuhn winery that is getting more and more attention, especially after Philipp Kuhn in 1992 - at the tender age of 20 - got involved in the family owned estate. You may be surprised to hear that the winery is not only producing some red wine, in fact about 50% of the wines made there are red. The delivery that brought this Riesling to London also included a Merlot! The story of red wine made by the Kuhns in the Palatinate will have to be told another night as tonight we are drinking the entry level Riesling from the Kuhn winery (entry level, by the way, does not mean mass-produced: harvests are limited to below 75 hl per hectare).
Immediately after unscrewing the bottle the yummy aromas of yeast fill the room. I poured a little wine and found not only a greenish golden colour, but also lots of small bubbles - certainly a very fresh wine, even into the second day of drinking it. The aroma is cool, with some citrus and peach, but also vegetable notes and a little spicy red apple. On the first day, I also found a little paraffin and bees wax with banana, but that was not as noticeable on the second day.
On the mouth it has focussed acidity and some fruit, but I also get a little smoke (again, this was more on the first day when the wine really made me crave for smoked bacon, citrus bacon, actually). Even on the second day the Riesling stayed fresh and sharp, a really clear-cut wine. The finish is on the medium side.
The 'Tradition' Riesling may not blow your socks off (to use that overused phrase). However, in the best sense this is a plain and honest wine, without being shallow. A nice, refreshing dry Riesling, especially if you like wine with good acidity.
In fact, Loosen's German winery was downgraded by Gault and Millau this year, while abroad he continues to be a rising star. Will write something about this next week.
In reply to Loosen by Christian G.E…
Thanks for your comment, Christian. I think this was in reply to a one of our tweets mention Dr. Loosen? It never fails to amaze me how popular Loosen is in the Anglo-Saxon world. Even my local supermarket in London has Loosen wine. I do not want to say that these wines would be bad, in fact one of the Kabinetts I can buy here is actually decent value compared to other fruity whites here. However, this omnipresence must have something to do with good marketing too.
In reply to Re: Loosen by torsten
Here is my posting about Ernst Loosen.
He is indeed very active in the US, both with imported and locally produced wines. As to the former, Dr. L is on of the 2 German wines that made it to the Wine Spectator List, a wine unheard of in Germany. With regard to the US wines, his Eroica is very popular and indeed very good.
In reply to Ernst Loosen by Christian G.E…
re: Ernst Loosen
Thanks for sharing the information, Christian. It always amuses me when I hear people say that German wine is all sweet, when in fact most German wine is dry, as you rightly point out. It makes sense that Loosen is producing wine specifically for the US market - I would assume that the basic Loosen wine that my local London supermarket has, "Loosen Br.", is made for export too.