A few months ago I was browsing the web store of one of the Wine Rambler's favourite German wine merchants (Behringer). While going through the Pfalz selection, I came across a dry Riesling that despite having been rated at 90/100 by the German wine guide Gault Millau still sold at only €8. As I needed to resupply on dry 'everyday' Riesling anyway, I ordered a bottle to find out what the fuzz was all about.
The colour is an intense, slightly darker straw-yellow. When I first poured the wine, the nose was very closed and it took a little while to open up. Even later on, the Siener Riesling did not turn into a fruit aroma bomb, instead it was a little more reserved, but quite focussed. The palate featured lemon, herb and mineral (think flint), stone fruit (more apricot than peach) and a bit of grapefruit. This is a Riesling with very present and focussed acidity, seriously dry on the tongue, again with stone fruit and very zingy lime.
On the first day I shared it with some wine loving friends (a truly international crowd, including an American, a German, a Brazilian and an Englishman). They were quite impressed by the Siener Riesling's bone dry appearance and the zingy acidity, but interestingly no one asked for a second glass (which is why this story will continue into a second and third day). I guess my drinking companions probably expected a somewhat sweeter, more floral wine (think Mosel style), which the Siener clearly is not. We also tasted it directly after a lovely, juicy Pinot Blanc, which made the Riesling appear even sharper.
I tried the wine again two days later and it was as sharp and focussed as on the first day. However, without the contrast to the Pinot and with me now being in the mood for a wine like this, it made for a really enjoyable experience. I still don't think it is a revelation, but it is a damn honest wine for a good price.
If you like a dry, crisp, focussed Riesling, a no-nonsense flinty type with lots of acidity zing, a wine that is more like the young James Coburn and less than Cary Grant, this could be your friend.