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Reinhold Haart, Wintricher Ohligsberg, Riesling Großes Gewächs, 2007

Light, clean colour. Just seconds after the cork comes out of the bottle, your nose tells you that this (dry) wine is a little different from the sweet Haarts. The mineral is more steely, focused, with light melon, fresh acidity, less herbs than usual.

In the mouth, again steely with a sharp edge, lots of sharp acidity, very clear and quite elegant, with some melon and green fruit (and I could have sworn there were coffee beans at some point, while C recognised strawberries).

This dry GG keeps some of the light, elegant features of the fruity Haarts, but combines them with dry acidity punch and a more steely, uncompromising mineral core. For a top class wine of this type I probably opened it at least a couple of years too early, presenting itself a little more austere, but it was already very enjoyable and went nicely with both the parsnip and apple soup for lunch and the melon risotto for dinner.

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