Subjectivity, Objectivity and a Chardonnay from Rheinhessen
I had a surprisingly charming Chardonnay from one of Rheinhessen's countless family wineries with sunday lunch today (full review). It was recommended via twitter and co-rambler Torsten by German wine guru Mario Scheuermann.
Going on an "objectively" correct ranking like WeinPlus wine guide's 81 points ("Nicht allzu tief. Ordentlicher Abgang"), I wound never have bought it. I can just about see what Scheuermann means by the "lustvolle Subjektivität" (joyful subjectivity) that he would like to see in wine journalism. After emptying the rest of the bottle, I couldn't care less if he plays cards with Runkel's second cousin, or his critical neutrality was impaired in any other way.
Subjectivity: 1
Objectivity: 0
Objectivity will get it's chance next, when I manage to get hold of the dramatically named 06 Spätburgunder "Ex flammis orior" from Württemberg's Fürst Hohenlohe, which WeinPlus has just called a benchmark in german pinot noir, a result which would in all probability not have come about in an open tasting, given the rather low standing of the region and the producer's lack of any history of outstanding quality. In that case, I want to be absolutely sure that the WeinPlus people don't have their lawns trimmed and their cars washed by Fürst Hohenlohe's nephew (an admittedly unlikely scenario, but there are many dangers for journalistic integrity...)