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Submitted by Alexander Tuesday, 11/12/2012

I just bought a bottle of 2011 Linsenhöfer Silvaner Vulkan (technically a Spätlese) today in a local small wineshop; have unscrewed it and just - while typing this and unwinding from pre-Christmas stress through some allegedly-out-of-my-character kitsch music (Enya !!) - am tasting it.

A very pleasant surprise of remarkable quality, given the legendarily BAD reputation that Neuffener "Täleswein" has always had - and still has - among Swabians (only wine from Reutlingen is badmouthed worse).

Non-autochthonous drinkers should be aware that the region is very near to a an endemic seat of Deepest Pietism, namely to the hamlet of Hülben with a local reputation [*] of slooooooooowwwnessssss, and its legendary or notorious "Hülbener Stund" (a weekly bible lecture and prayer fellowship, maintained and upheld since over 200 years by a single schoolmaster family, the Kullen dynasty), a religious persuasion thus that makes any US Southern Baptist appear liberal and nigh free-masonic... So much for my own pretence of knowledge of local feuds and slurs (ask me about the Swabian meaning of "Hüle" and its symbolic employ [**] at some later time).

Back to the wine. In any blind tasting, not at few tasters would identify this as a slightly acidic overly German style Pinot Gris, with a mere 12,5 % alcohol; however, the as of now yet undeveloped finish and his boyish, very slim hips clarify that the wine can hardly be a pinot family member. While already nicely drinkable, this Vulkan can and will posssibly find a bit more equilibrium (I mean it as I write it: equilibrium; for harmonic is already is) - and may develop what its very pleasing nose already announces. A more detailed evaluation, appreciation or hatchet job may follow later, I have only had the first sips.

(*) The extremely detailed polyhistoric 19th century Oberamtsbeschreibungen (shire descriptions) - all of them now easily internationally available on the 'Net - are your friends.
(**) Between a bog and a small stale pond, more on the bog side. Or, as proverbial Swabian [im]propriety of yesteryear had put it: "them beasts ain't drinkin' it anymore, but for them there folks, it's still good enough!"

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